Sunday, 15 March 2015

Rosslyn Chapel

27 September 2014

My cousin, Vickie, visited in September and gave us another chance to try out our tour guiding skills...

A new place we visited just south of town was the Rosslyn Chapel of Da Vinci Code fame. It was originally built in 1456, but has had a troubled past (closed in 1571 when assets were seized during the Reformation, sacked in 1650, restored and services began again in 1862). It's so amazing to think that this chapel has been here during all the European migration to the New World!

I love flying buttresses so I love this little chapel!
The original plans called for a larger church, but the finished product is much smaller and the unfinished portion is clearly visible. Eventually, they added a small entrance in the unfinished portion.

Original plans (shape of a cross)
View of the chapel as it stands now.

The unfinished portion of the church - you can clearly see that they intended something bigger. The edges of the structure have unfinished walls, but they added the entrance portion later















I don't have any photos of the inside (no photos allowed), but there were some interesting features, including:

  • An angel playing the bagpipes - oldest depiction of the bagpipe - they were first used in the mid-1400s
  • A beautifully carved column - This column was allegedly carved by an apprentice carver inspired by a dream. When the master returned and saw the carving, he supposedly killed the apprentice in a rage
  • Mistake or Message? In a stone carving of the 7 Sins and 7 Virtues, Greed and Charity are swapped, with Greed amongst the virtues and Charity now a sin. 
  • A crypt that featured in the Da Vinci Code - although it looks a little different and less exciting without Tom Hanks!

One of the saddest things is that in the 1950s they tried to protect the delicate painted internal sculpted features by applying a protective coating to everything. However, they haven't been able to successfully remove it, so all the internal features are less detailed and unpainted. The features are still beautiful and I can only imagine how stunning the chapel would have been prior to the 'saving' of the delicate features...

A few more photos of the beautiful outside of the chapel.

The flying buttresses were beautiful in person, but hard to photograph because they blend in with the stone behind it. 

Dog friendly!


There is a little graveyard just down the hill from the chapel.
It was beautiful and green with storm clouds in the background. 

The chapel is located next to a very beautiful natural area complete with hiking paths, stone walls, and a stream - very beautiful in the fall!

When the wall was built, there was clearly a need for this little pass through.
The tree couldn't have been blocking it, so it just reinforces how old things are. 





No trip is complete without a stop for a pint!
We were happy to be a bit early for the bus :)


Saturday, 14 March 2015

A cocktail party education

14 Feb 2015

A cocktail party can be a very international educational experience (and much more fun than sitting in a classroom!). Things I learned at a cocktail party:

1) Making cocktails is messy business
Making mixed drinks (pouring, using a shaker, etc.) is not as easy as it looks when the bartenders do it (my drink-coated table and floor will attest to this!). We had milk punch (alcoholic milkshake) and brambles (a fun, British drink) - we got the hang of it eventually!

2) Party games are different across the ocean
I went to a well-respected party school for college (Go UW-Madison!) and thought I had a good handle on party games. However, I learned two new games. One is distinctly British and the other is too much fun not to share:

Save the Queen:
Using a British coin (which has a picture of the Queen on it), you have to try and get the coin into someone else's drink. If they are holding the drink, you can slip it in. Otherwise, you have to throw the coin in. If you succeed, you exclaim 'Save the Queen!' (because she's drowning!) and they have to finish their drink. Of course, beware that you don't accidentally swallow the Queen in your haste to save her from her watery fate...

Paper/Guessing Game:
Using whatever theme you want (anything from all nouns to famous people or Valentine's Day), each player fills out three slips of paper with appropriate (or inappropriate!) words. Then the game is played using teams and three rounds. In the first round, each person gets 1 minute to try and get their team to guess as many of the words as possible by describing them in any way, but without using the word on the paper (a la Balderdash). When the minute runs out, the other team gets 1 minute and it goes back and forth until all the words have been guessed. At this point, everyone on both teams has heard all the possible words. You would think that would make the following two rounds easier...
In round 2, the format is the same, but you only get a single word descriptor. Finally, round 3 is miming only.

3) Names for Disney heroes/villains are not the same across languages
This difference is apparent mostly when trying to use the name in a party game with people from at least 5 different countries! Our particular example was Cruella vs Crudelia. I looked up another example as well as my homework.

  • English: Huey, Dewey, Louie
  • Finnish: Tupu, Hupu, Lupu
  • Swedish: Knatte, Fnatte, Tjatte
  • Danish: Rip, Rap, Rup
  • Norwegian: Ole, Dole, Doffen

4) Innocent handwriting misinterpretations can lead to hilarity.
I'll leave you to invent a definition for 'spankles'!

Cheers!

Thursday, 15 January 2015

The lone piper in the rain

15 Jan 2015

As I finished working in the lab today, I heard the faint echo of a bagpipe amidst the pitter-patter of rain hitting the windows. I walked to a window down the hall and the melody grew louder. I looked down over the courtyard to see a lone piper in front of one of our historic buildings playing his bagpipe.

There was no obvious audience for this solitary piper. His only crowd, I have to assume, were the other academics like me who had been drawn from their dark offices and labs to the windows, out of his sight, to listen. He stood stalwart in the bone-chilling wind and the driving rain, creating beautiful melodies instead of the usual traditional tourist tunes the council pays to have floating around the city center.

He was the pied piper, drawing people through the dark night to the Burns' Night celebration inside; heralding the light, warmth, and flowing alcohol with the sound of Scotland. You never know when the little things in life will surprise you...

The sound of a lone piper playing the bagpipe, with the melody echoing off the buildings and hills in the dark, rainy, blustery weather - this is Scotland.

Me: What a horrible night to have an outdoor gig!
Him ( with amazing Scottish accent ): Tell me about it!
Me: Well, I hope you don't get too cold out here tonight
Him ( still in incredible brogue ): Too late!

Wednesday, 15 October 2014

The blind leading the blind in the Scottish Highlands


30-31 July 2014

Nico and I have spent a lot of time in Edinburgh, enjoying many pubs, restaurants, and tourist landmarks. However, Ronda and Ryan gave us the chance to get out of our comfort zone and see a bit more of this beautiful country. Since we hadn't ventured this direction, it was essentially a case of the (mostly) blind leading the blind.

Ronda and Ryan rented a car and Ronda drove - slightly more complicated in a manual, but she did a great job. However, it was sometimes a group effort when it came to sorting out directions :) As a recurring theme in a Scottish blog, castles were the main attractions, although we managed to fit in a distillery and hiking as well. A good, all-purpose trip to the Scottish Highlands. On the first day, we saw Lochleven, then toured the Blair Atholl distillery, spent the night tucked away at a B&B with adorable pine martens, went hiking, hunted some highland cows, and visited Stirling Castle and Doune Castle on the way home. Quite a lot to pack into two days! I think I would budget longer in the future - I can't wait to go back and see more!

Thanks again to Ryan & Ronda for the excuse to get out of town!

Lochleven: A castle on an island. 
A beautiful castle tower all to ourselves - perfect for Ryan and Ronda to re-enact a beautiful romance story with a princess in a tower :)
We stopped at Blair Atholl distillery for a tour. 
Fun to see how they make the tasty beverage, despite the fact that none of us are whisky connoisseurs :)

Trying a new whisky

Beautiful scenery on the drive.

Our bed & breakfast for the night. Well off the beaten path and chosen specifically for its frequent, wild visitors. 

Pine martens played outside!

Hiked in Glen Nevis. Tons of waterfalls and it didn't rain on us!

Sometimes the small can be as beautiful as the big.

The destination of our hike, but the rest of the rocky and picturesque hike was almost as gorgeous!
Ronda enthusiastically showing off her rock collection that is supposedly 'for a friend'.
We may turn her into a geologist yet! 

Hunting (with a camera) the elusive 'eelin coo' (Highland Cow):

We specifically stopped several places in the highlands that were rumored to have a cow. No luck! We even stopped by the Ben Nevis distillery that was said to have two cows named Ben and Nevis. They had recently passed away and the baby coos were not ready to be on display just yet, so no luck there. On the way to our hike, we were supposed to see tons of them in the valley - No luck again! We had essentially given up hope and were driving home when we saw these cute guys in a field across from a tourist cafe and gift shop! The pouring rain made it a bit tougher, but I guess this is a more natural state for these guys :)



Stirling Castle - The most intact and stunning castle I've seen in Scotland yet. Edinburgh castle is neat, but Stirling feels more like a castle and it's fun to see sections restored to their previous elegance. It definitely gave us a more complete picture of what these castles might have been like when people actually lived in them. 
We picked up an extra member of our group at the castle. 


You'd never know, but we hosted royalty!
My love affair with crenelations continues :)
Doune castle - Famous for its starring roles in Monty Python and the Holy Grail as well as the being part of Winterfell in the first episode of Game of Thrones. In honor of its ties to Winterfell, Ronda beheaded me in front of the castle :)  We got here after it closed, so no view inside, but still worth stopping by!

Not long after this trip, our guests headed home and life settled back down to 'normal' - which still includes a walking commute past a castle and amazing history on a daily basis. We absolutely don't take our time here for granted and I can't wait to get out and see more of the country!

Wednesday, 17 September 2014

Touristing at home: Ryan & Ronda

28 July 2014

Our first shot at being tour guides in Scotland. Our friends, Ryan & Ronda, came over to visit for a week. As luck would have it, they had coincidentally booked the same flight as us back to the UK!

Ryan and Ronda joined us for our Philadelphia to Edinburgh flight on our way home from the States. Ryan was great at capturing Nico being himself as we boarded.

Although I've been here more than a year, we haven't spent as much time seeing the rest of Scotland as we have working and seeing Edinburgh.
Welcome to my historic building workplace!

Edinburgh Castle
I've seen it every day for a year and I finally got a chance to see it for myself from the inside! Beautiful views and lots of history. The hilltop has been occupied or had fortifications since at least the 1300s. I think that much history warrants its own post at a later date :)  Here are some highlights:

View of the castle from the entrance area. 

Looking out at the city along one of the canons.
Looking along the row of flags with the Firth of Forth in the background.

Dog cemetery at the castle for regimental mascots and officers' dogs. The names we could read: Winkle, Yum Yum, and Sheena. 

One of the advantages of having friends in town is the excuse to try new restaurants. We went to Tuk Tuk (Indian street food) and had a good meal. The idea is essentially small dishes of food to share (like tapas). At the end, we were getting ready to pay and they said they had a special deal for everyone on Mondays: if you roll a die and get a 6, your food is free. We passed it to Ronda and she 'paid' for our meal by rolling a 6! Good food AND it was free!
Ronda's good luck got us a free dinner for four! Yay for Matka Monday!

Eating at semi-famous places: One of the locations where JK Rowling wrote part of Harry Potter.
There's another one right near my building.


Enjoying a nice dinner out after a long day of touristing (or working, in Nico's case).

Tune in next time for the trip to the highlands!

Sunday, 31 August 2014

An outside perspective on Scottish Independence

On September 18, Scotland will vote on independence. Regardless of the outcome, this is an exciting time to be living here. The election propaganda has been fierce, but still much more limited than any election in the US (we've really only been getting spammed in the last 3 months!). We've been asked a lot of questions about the independence election, so we'll try to clear things up to the best of our ability. Disclaimer: We are not Scottish and can never truly understand the intricacies of the situation. However, we are living here right now and will do our best.

What are the two 'sides' called?

The two main 'camps' in this issue are 'Independent Scotland' (aka 'Yes') and 'Better Together' (aka 'No').

Do we get to vote in the election? 

No, because of the fateful day in history when the US rebelled against British rule. The election is limited to any UK resident living in Scotland and any Commonwealth citizens resident in Scotland at the time of the election. Even people who grew up in Scotland all their lives, but are living outside of Scotland are not eligible.

The voting age in the UK is 18, but the election age has been reduced to 16 for this particular vote. In Scotland, you only have to be 16 to marry (no parental consent needed) and if Scotland becomes independent, the voting age would be reduced to 16. I think back to myself at 16, still living at home, and realize that I didn't know the first practical thing about living on my own yet, managing finances, etc. My guess is the rebellious streak in teenagers will help the Yes vote. There are more cultural nuances here than I've listed because the school system works differently here and you can complete your required education at 16 and then pursue jobs or vocational training, while any students wishing to go to a traditional university must complete an additional 1-2 years of training before they begin. With this system in place, it is possible to be a completely self-sufficient 16 year old out in the world in Scotland. Once again, nothing is as simple as it seems.

Propaganda: 

We see it in commercials, in the mail, handed out on the street, signs in store windows - EVERYWHERE. In general, the Yes material discusses what could happen under an independent Scotland, but there are very few concrete details. None of the plans are guaranteed and everything is couched in terms of 'We hope' or 'We could'. Phrases like this (from the article below) keep coming up in relation to some of the issues: 'The reality is no-one can know how it would work out until it happens.' I think this is really the key problem with the Yes campaign.

It's hard to find an unbiased website, but here's a good site that seems to include a little bit of both sides (Edinburgh News). It brings up some of the contradictions in the two sides of the argument that we kept hearing/seeing:


YESNO
Is Independence feasible?Independence achievable by 2016 Not feasible
Can Scotland be financially independent?Scotland is one of the wealthiest nations in the world and contributes evenly in taxes to the UK Scotland gets more public spending than the rest of the UK and receives more than it puts in
Could Scotland join the EU?Scotland would be a EU member There's no way to know
Could Scotland keep the pound?Scotland could keep the pound Scotland could not keep the pound (Misleading: Scotland could keep the pound, but could not have any say in interest rates, etc. since it would be another country's currency)
Would Independence require more tax money?No increase in taxes to accomplish the whole plan Increase by about £1000 per year

Here are some examples of the brochures we've gotten at our flat:
YES
YES: This would be fantastic and I'd love to see families have access to this.
I'm still unclear on where this money will come from.
Note: There is a full year of maternity leave built into the system here (typically 26 weeks regular, and you can take an additional 26 weeks at less pay).
YES: Many people are financially concerned about the election and this tries to explain the 'facts'

YES: 'Your Choice' sounds like it's unbiased - but this is definitely from the Independent Scotland campaign!
YES: Not a clear message of an actual plan, but more of 'a hope' for a better system. 

NO: What happy kids in the highlands. I'm sure they knew they were part of the message.
NO: This brochure does not say that they couldn't use the pound (common misconception), but it gets close!
NO: Note that they play on the whisky for their argument! We had also never considered that Scotland would need their own embassies all over the world. 

What does the UK government say?

NO: Once again 'You Decide' sounds so unbiased. This is a UK government publication.
They are not impartial and completely support the NO campaign.

How does the rest of the UK feel? 

The running joke: 'The easiest way to assure Scottish independence would be to let England vote!'
But there are many English people who believe in the unity of the UK.

J.K. Rowling lives in Edinburgh and (as might be expected) has written the most eloquent essay I have read on the topic. Here are two paragraphs (first and last) from her website, but feel free to check out the whole thing here.
I came to the question of independence with an open mind and an awareness of the seriousness of what we are being asked to decide.  This is not a general election, after which we can curse the result, bide our time and hope to get a better result in four years.  Whatever Scotland decides, we will probably find ourselves justifying our choice to our grandchildren.  I wanted to write this because I always prefer to explain in my own words why I am supporting a cause and it will be made public shortly that I’ve made a substantial donation to the Better Together Campaign, which advocates keeping Scotland part of the United Kingdom. 
...
If the majority of people in Scotland want independence I truly hope that it is a resounding success. While a few of our fiercer nationalists might like to drive me forcibly over the border after reading this, I’d prefer to stay and contribute to a country that has given me more than I can easily express.  It is because I love this country that I want it to thrive.  Whatever the outcome of the referendum on 18th September, it will be a historic moment for Scotland.  I just hope with all my heart that we never have cause to look back and feel that we made a historically bad mistake. 

How are our friends voting? 

We have friends in both camps, although I've never seen the two groups discussing the issue in person. On both sides, they admit that they understand the arguments from the other side. It is a complicated issue and the polls here are completely undecided and hovering around 50% for each side. I think we'll just have to wait for election day to find out.

If YES wins, when would Scotland actually become independent? 

The YES side expects the complicated negotiations to be completed in time for the next planned Scottish Parliment elections, so they have tentatively set a date of March 24, 2016 for independence. Considering it has taken longer than that to publish a volume of scientific papers from a big group, I am rather dubious about the predicted timetable.

How would we vote? 

Based simply on the logistics of becoming a country in less than 2 years, I think it's unrealistic and would probably vote NO. Not to mention that losing a country from the UK would deal a sizable blow to both economies until the dust had fully settled. However, there are so many cultural issues here that do seem to set Scotland apart from the other areas of the UK. I think a change this enormous requires a much more detailed plan and a much slower transition. If the Scots truly believe that this is enough to warrant their own country, then I would not want to deny them the opportunity. The issue of freedom is centuries old and we cannot possibly hope to grasp the full meaning after living here for only a year.

Check back for updates after September 18!
A Scottish highland 'coo' eagerly awaits the news :)