Antarctica!

6 Jan 2014

After gluing my face to the airplane window for the last 2 hours of the flight (ever since we could see land), I stepped out of the plane and onto the runway at Rothera. We were greeted by the base commander who warmly welcomed us to the frozen continent. At +3 degrees C and sunny, the first impression was stunning. The elephant seals were grunting loudly and play fighting and the view of the mountains with ice glistening in the sun made it hard not to grin every time I looked around.

We had our safety briefing, dinner, then drinks at the bar. The JRC (the James Clark Ross) was leaving the next morning, so everyone on base was invited to the ship for drinks. A unique experience that we only got because the ship was running a few days behind schedule. We all collapsed into bed after midnight, although you couldn't tell because it still looked like early evening outside based on the light.

The next morning (Sunday) was a day off for most of the base – well-earned after two full days of “relief.” Relief happens whenever a ship comes in with a new shipment. All other work on base ceases while the supplies from the ship are ferried by gators (little utility trucks) back and forth from the ship to where they need to be stored. The equipment, food, and other supplies need to be unpacked and stored in various locations on base and the effort goes on around the clock until it’s complete.

While everyone else rested, Kate (the other new member of our field party) and I started our field training so that we could be prepared to leave at the earliest possible flying window. Field training included learning how to use the stoves and lamps (which look like they’re out of the 1800’s, but they are the most reliable and field-serviceable equipment for the cold!), how to drive the ski-doos, how to set up our emergency tents, how to use the comms equipment (radios, satellite phones, etc.), and it culminated in a night outside in the Rothera “backyard” play area. 

We had such a busy day that we weren't able to get up the hill for our overnight until after dinner – I'm ok eating pork roast, delicious potatoes, and roasted vegetables instead of freeze-dried meals for one more night! There will be plenty of freeze-dried food in the field. We took the ski-doos up the hill, set up the tent, had a cup of tea, and went to bed exhausted after ~12 hours of training. The light didn't seem to bother us at all…

Up at the tent site, in the complete stillness that can only be found in remote areas of the world, I heard a distant rumble. Then another small sound, like very distant thunder. Finally, a long, louder rumble. The field assistant (and our instructor for the training) told us that he had seen evidence of a recently calved off chunk of ice floating in pieces at the base of the cliff where we were staying. Mystery solved and my awe of this place increases :)  How magical! The entire experience is surreal and unlike anything else. But lots of training and no time to spare, so back to work in one of the most beautiful places in the world!