Planes in Antarctica: Looking at the bottom of the world from above

2 March 2014

Flying in Antarctica is a unique experience. Forget everything you know about airport security, runways, and flying coach. The ride in the Dash from Punta Arenas to Rothera (with a pit stop in the Falkland Islands to pick up some important gear) felt similar to a commercial plane. However, there were a few differences: the meals and drinks were self-service (nicer than having to wait for flight attendants to deliver meals!) and the luggage was loaded in the front part of the plane.

Dash on the way from South America to Rothera. Note hanging monkey on the right side of the plane :)

View of the Twin Otters and the Dash in the hangar at Rothera.

The first view of Antarctic mountains out the plane window caused a stir of excitement – all of the newbies hopped up and ran to windows while the old-timers simply smiled at us (but they were quite indulgent – they remember what it was like!). To be fair, everyone there seems to realize how lucky they are to be in such an amazing place.

The Base Commander met us at the plane and welcomed us to Rothera. I had trouble not smiling for the first few hours, despite the busy schedule of briefings, getting settled, and meals.  

Welcome to Antarctica! All smiles :)

Flying on the Twin Otter, the plane they used to fly us out in the field, was yet another completely different experience. The Twin Otters have skis and wheels, so they can land on paved runways, blue ice, or snow in the field. We had some unique problems with runway obstruction – seals and penguins that needed to move before we could start the plane and takeoff! There were regular seats, but they were small and cramped, even for my short legs, so it was usually much nicer to find other sleeping arrangements on top of the gear. 

On our way to the field! 

A VERY large runway obstruction :)

John taking advantage of the relatively small and comfy pile of gear on our way out to the field.

With the Twin Otters, you’re not just a passenger – we get to help load/unload the plane and ride as copilots! Watching six guys maneuver a skidoo onto or off of a small plane is quite impressive.

Hauling our stuff (using skidoos and sledges) to get ready for the plane.

Loading the plane at Sky-Blu. Time for a workout for us while the pilots play tetris with the gear!

The base was essentially a working airport. We could use the runway or apron (the area in front of the hangar) for activities like running or playing football (soccer), as long as the siren wasn’t going and we checked with the tower first. The other “airports” we used were mostly just for refueling/reloading. We flew from Rothera to Fossil Bluff (first ski landing!) and then on to Sky-Blu (blue-ice runway).

Refueling at Fossil Bluff - note the skis :)

Plane landing at Sky-Blu.

Melon hut at Sky-Blu. Our first stop on our way back to "civilization" from the field. 

Flying was smoother than I ever thought – hardly any motion sickness, no turbulence, and smoother landings than any of my recent commercial flights, even on snow J The pilots are some of the best in the world. Although the forecasters do their best to keep the pilots out of bad weather, they have to be ready to deal with unpredictable weather in remote locations. We had some amazing flying days with beautiful views down below. It's a pretty amazing experience that we were lucky enough to have as part of our field work.

I was trying to get a photo of the iceberg as we flew by, but it was too close for a good photo! Amazing experience flying at iceberg level, watching seals jump off icebergs below.

Clouds and their shadows on the ice and mountains.

Beautiful blue meltwater near Fossil Bluff.